Author: lindamayoux

  • Paper

    Paper is a thin material produced by pressing together moist fibres of cellulose pulp derived from wood, rags or grasses, and drying them into flexible sheets. The word “paper” is etymologically derived from Latin papyrus, which comes from the Greek πάπυρος (papuros), the word for the Cyperus papyrus plant.

    History of paper

    Paper types

    Paper is a versatile material with many uses, including writing, printing, packaging, cleaning, and a number of industrial and construction processes. Key concerns are: weight, bulk and thickness; surface and interaction with inks and printing techniques; stability over time.

    Paper sizes

    In Europe and most of the world ISO (International Standard Organisation) metric system is used. In UK this is used alongside the Imperial System. In US measurements are based on inches.

    Papermaking processes

    The modern pulp and paper industry is global, with China leading its production and the United States right behind it. There are companies developing more sustainable and environmentally-friendly was of mass producing paper using sustainable sources of raw and recycled materials, less toxic chemicals and lower energy requirements. Though in countries like India labour health concerns remain. Industrial papermaking There has also been a resurgence of interest in handmade papermaking to recycle paper and for art papers. There has also been considerable interest in traditional Asian and African papermaking processes, and ways of developing handmade papers as an income resource for poorer people. Handmade papermaking Asian and African handmade paper This part of the project involved exploring different types of paper and reflecting on their personal associations – smells, feel, weight and so on. Associations with paper concern not only the unprinted paper, but also the ways in which the paper interacts with different types of ink during different printmaking processes. The main characteristics I found significant were:
    • weight, thickness and transparency
    • texture, grain and surface gloss
    • absorbency to different types of media
    • ageing properties
    My explorations with paper were ongoing and further developed as I progressed with this series of projects, Assignments 4 and 5. My work here also built on work from earlier OCA Illustration, Printmaking, Painting and Photography courses where I had experimented with different types of inkjet art paper, newsprint, tissue paper, watercolour papers, Japanese and other printmaking papers and photographic papers. My conclusions on use of different types of – including technical notes – can be found from: Paper Types I made a number of new discoveries during Assignment 4: Tissue Paper Wallpaper OHP Transparencies Fabric – canvas cloths OHP transparency Inkjet printing on different types of mediums Handmade paper (forthcoming) Here I focus specifically on my learning from these projects.

    Initial collation of types of paper

    I started by putting together a list of different types of paper from Google searches on Wikipedia and books on Bookmaking. I made a collection of all the different types of paper I already had, and collected new ones through visiting craft shops and ordering on-line. This resulted in a wide range of papers of different weights and sizes to use as my stack for printing in Part 3.

    Associations with different types of paper

    Heavy papers

    Blotting paper My memories of blotting paper from school was of very heavy pink paper that would absorb the excess ink from a fountain pen. This recalled dark rainy winter afternoons spent making notes from history or english lessons. With inky messy fingers that were hard to get clean. Then the way it was possible to put the end of the nib on the paper and watch the pool of ink spread out, and the pictures made in the trails of blotted ink. I also remember blotting paper at the beginning of writing pads I had to use every year for Xmas Thankyou letters to relatives I hardly ever met. A mixture of  nostalgia – coloured also by old films of school like the Prime of Miss Jean Brody, Tom Brown’s school days with tales of discipline and cruelty. And boredom of dark winter days. I thought this paper would have an interesting dull and/or indistinct hazy effect that could be used for memories or ‘blotting out’. The ink does not stay dark, good for hazy backgrounds to contrast with sharper foregrounds if used in digital or collage montage. In the event (as people no longer regularly use fountain pens) I could only get hold of some rather refined white blotting paper from Amazon that did not have this dramatic effect I had in mind. Book paper This project was done in parallel to Assignment 4 altered book and I had collected a number of secondhand books to take apart. Books obviously use many different types of paper – some are much more glossy and expensive than others. Most of what I collected to take apart were old novels and paperbacks using relatively cheap paper. This paper had many of the qualities I was looking for in blotting paper – old memories and absorbency to spread out and dull the ink. Then the yellowing and ageing. Thick watercolour and ink papers I have experimented a lot with different types of watercolour paper and the ways they react with watercolour, ink, pencils and crayons. They remind me of creative energy watching watercolour pigments interact on the paper, and sunny holidays by the sea or in the Cambridge Botanic Gardens. Happy feel. The texture of the cold-pressed and Not papers is exciting because it gives more unpredictability to the line, and enable under-colours or just the creamy colour of the paper to shine through. I like the very smooth hot-pressed papers and the very fine and delicate pencil and watercolour effects you can get through smudging and interaction of pigments. And just the feel of the paper as you draw. Bristol Board – maybe because of its name – I find a bit more intimidating. Much more formal and stiff and starched – reminds me of stern landladies. It needs a bit of distressing to free up style. Acrylic and oil canvas papers These have a interesting texture that can be drawn on as well as painted. But you need to use acrylic first before oil paint – oil paint will not dry when used immediately on acrylic paper. It can also be scratched into and distressed in different ways to vary the surface texture.

    Medium papers

    cartridge drawing papers and sketchbook paper coloured pastel and drawing paper lined writing paper graph and isometric paper

    Light thin papers

    I really like the delicacy of these papers, the sounds they make, the ways they can be crumpled, layered, printed or drawn on both back and front to show through. But they tend to jam an inkjet printer unless fixed beforehand to a thicker sheet. Temporary foxing can be done onto OHP transparency – be careful of edges that can come up and jam the print. tracing paper, greaseproof paper, glassene paper: all have a shiny and non-transparent surface that can be used to blurr ink. The ink can also be smeared after printing. The thinner papers buckle slightly than can give an interesting effect eg when scanned. newsprint: this is easily obtained in large rolls, and will go through the inkjet printer. I like the shininess and the slightly dappled effect with ink when used for eg linocut. Japanese and Chinese papers: these will only just go through an inkjet printer with care. But can give quite a sharp print – depending on whether the smooth or backside of the paper is used. This reminds me of happy days experimenting with monoprint. tissue paper: this includes non-absorbent tissue paper used for interleaving prints – this can produce really interesting effects when crumpled and used for cleaning up after printmaking.

    Inkjet paper

    • Inkjet fine art papers
    • glossy photo paper
    • matt photo paper
    • satin photo paper
    • OHP transparency
    I also ordered different inkjet mediums to enable me to use paint and other media without damaging the printer.

    Photography papers

    matt, glossy and silk Ephemera and printed paper
    • wallpaper
    • wrapping paper
    • metallic papers
    • alluminium foil
    • tickets, flyers, printed material or mementos or souvenirs of exhibitions, occasions and days out.
    • canvas and fabrics

    Further explorations:

    • Making my own handmade paper (forthcoming)
    • Printing by hand on cardboard and other types of surface that will not go through my inkjet printer.
       

    Paper Sizes

    ISO 216 metric sizes  are the standard for Europe and most of the world outside the US. The ISO 216 system is based on the surface area of a sheet of paper, not on a sheet’s width and length. It was first adopted in Germany in 1922 and generally spread as nations adopted the metric system.
    • A sizes describe paper.
    • B sizes are larger and used for printing as they include a trim and
    • C sizes are for envelopes to contain the A sizes.
    In the ISO paper size system all sheet sizes have a width to height ratio of the square root of two (1:1.4142). By placing two sheets of A series paper next to each other, or by cutting one in half parallel to its shorter side, the resulting sheet will again have the same width to height ratio. The largest standard size paper is A0 (A zero), measuring one square meter (approx. 1189 × 841 mm). Two sheets of A1, placed upright side by side fit exactly into one sheet of A0 laid on its side. Similarly, two sheets of A2 fit into one sheet of A1 and so forth. Common sizes used in the office and the home are A4 and A3 (A3 is the size of two A4 sheets). In papers for printing, the prefix R or SR is added to the A size to denote a slightly larger sheet to allow for machine grip and registration in the print process eg for full bleed images. papersizes  
    Size Height x Width (mm) Height x Width (in)
    4A0 2378 x 1682 mm 93.6 x 66.2 in
    2A0 1682 x 1189 mm 66.2 x 46.8 in
    A0 1189 x 841 mm 46.8 x 33.1 in
    A1 841 x 594 mm 33.1 x 23.4 in
    A2 594 x 420 mm 23.4 x 16.5 in
    A3 420 x 297 mm 16.5 x 11.7 in
    A4 297 x 210 mm 11.7 x 8.3 in
    A5 210 x 148 mm 8.3 x 5.8 in
    A6 148 x 105 mm 5.8 x 4.1 in
    A7 105 x 74 mm 4.1 x. 2.9 in
    A8 74 x 52 mm 2.9 x 2.0 in
    A9 52 x 37 mm 2.0 x 1.5 in
    A10 37 x 26 mm 1.5 x 1.0 in
      In UK imperial measurements are still used alongside the metric system, including terms like Foolscap, Crown and Demy. Most commercial paper sold in North America is cut to standard paper sizes based on customary units and is defined by the length and width of a sheet of paper.

    This part of the project involved exploring different types of paper and reflecting on their personal associations – smells, feel, weight and so on. Associations with paper concern not only the unprinted paper, but also the ways in which the paper interacts with different types of ink during different printmaking processes. The main characteristics I found significant were:

    • weight, thickness and transparency
    • texture, grain and surface gloss
    • absorbency to different types of media
    • ageing properties

    My explorations with paper were ongoing and further developed as I progressed with this series of projects, Assignments 4 and 5. My work here also built on work from earlier OCA Illustration, Printmaking, Painting and Photography courses where I had experimented with different types of inkjet art paper, newsprint, tissue paper, watercolour papers, Japanese and other printmaking papers and photographic papers. My conclusions on use of different types of – including technical notes – can be found from:

    Paper Types

    I made a number of new discoveries during Assignment 4:

    Tissue Paper

    Wallpaper

    OHP Transparencies

    Fabric – canvas cloths

    OHP transparency

    Inkjet printing on different types of mediums

    Handmade paper (forthcoming)

    Here I focus specifically on my learning from these projects.

    Initial collation of types of paper

    I started by putting together a list of different types of paper from Google searches on Wikipedia and books on Bookmaking. I made a collection of all the different types of paper I already had, and collected new ones through visiting craft shops and ordering on-line. This resulted in a wide range of papers of different weights and sizes to use as my stack for printing in Part 3.

    Associations with different types of paper

    Heavy papers

    Blotting paper

    My memories of blotting paper from school was of very heavy pink paper that would absorb the excess ink from a fountain pen. This recalled dark rainy winter afternoons spent making notes from history or english lessons. With inky messy fingers that were hard to get clean. Then the way it was possible to put the end of the nib on the paper and watch the pool of ink spread out, and the pictures made in the trails of blotted ink. I also remember blotting paper at the beginning of writing pads I had to use every year for Xmas Thankyou letters to relatives I hardly ever met. A mixture of  nostalgia – coloured also by old films of school like the Prime of Miss Jean Brody, Tom Brown’s school days with tales of discipline and cruelty. And boredom of dark winter days.

    I thought this paper would have an interesting dull and/or indistinct hazy effect that could be used for memories or ‘blotting out’. The ink does not stay dark, good for hazy backgrounds to contrast with sharper foregrounds if used in digital or collage montage. In the event (as people no longer regularly use fountain pens) I could only get hold of some rather refined white blotting paper from Amazon that did not have this dramatic effect I had in mind.

    Book paper

    This project was done in parallel to Assignment 4 altered book and I had collected a number of secondhand books to take apart. Books obviously use many different types of paper – some are much more glossy and expensive than others. Most of what I collected to take apart were old novels and paperbacks using relatively cheap paper. This paper had many of the qualities I was looking for in blotting paper – old memories and absorbency to spread out and dull the ink. Then the yellowing and ageing.

    Thick watercolour and ink papers

    I have experimented a lot with different types of watercolour paper and the ways they react with watercolour, ink, pencils and crayons. They remind me of creative energy watching watercolour pigments interact on the paper, and sunny holidays by the sea or in the Cambridge Botanic Gardens. Happy feel.

    The texture of the cold-pressed and Not papers is exciting because it gives more unpredictability to the line, and enable under-colours or just the creamy colour of the paper to shine through.

    I like the very smooth hot-pressed papers and the very fine and delicate pencil and watercolour effects you can get through smudging and interaction of pigments. And just the feel of the paper as you draw.

    Bristol Board – maybe because of its name – I find a bit more intimidating. Much more formal and stiff and starched – reminds me of stern landladies. It needs a bit of distressing to free up style.

    Acrylic and oil canvas papers

    These have a interesting texture that can be drawn on as well as painted. But you need to use acrylic first before oil paint – oil paint will not dry when used immediately on acrylic paper. It can also be scratched into and distressed in different ways to vary the surface texture.

    Medium papers

    cartridge drawing papers and sketchbook paper

    coloured pastel and drawing paper

    lined writing paper

    graph and isometric paper

    Light thin papers

    I really like the delicacy of these papers, the sounds they make, the ways they can be crumpled, layered, printed or drawn on both back and front to show through. But they tend to jam an inkjet printer unless fixed beforehand to a thicker sheet. Temporary foxing can be done onto OHP transparency – be careful of edges that can come up and jam the print.

    tracing paper, greaseproof paper, glassene paper: all have a shiny and non-transparent surface that can be used to blurr ink. The ink can also be smeared after printing. The thinner papers buckle slightly than can give an interesting effect eg when scanned.

    newsprint: this is easily obtained in large rolls, and will go through the inkjet printer. I like the shininess and the slightly dappled effect with ink when used for eg linocut.

    Japanese and Chinese papers: these will only just go through an inkjet printer with care. But can give quite a sharp print – depending on whether the smooth or backside of the paper is used. This reminds me of happy days experimenting with monoprint.

    tissue paper: this includes non-absorbent tissue paper used for interleaving prints – this can produce really interesting effects when crumpled and used for cleaning up after printmaking.

    Inkjet paper

    • Inkjet fine art papers
    • glossy photo paper
    • matt photo paper
    • satin photo paper
    • OHP transparency

    I also ordered different inkjet mediums to enable me to use paint and other media without damaging the printer.

    Photography papers

    matt, glossy and silk

    Ephemera and printed paper

    • wallpaper
    • wrapping paper
    • metallic papers
    • alluminium foil
    • tickets, flyers, printed material or mementos or souvenirs of exhibitions, occasions and days out.
    • canvas and fabrics

    Further explorations:

    • Making my own handmade paper (forthcoming)
    • Printing by hand on cardboard and other types of surface that will not go through my inkjet printer.

     

     

     

    Paper is a thin material produced by pressing together moist fibres of cellulose pulp derived from wood, rags or grasses, and drying them into flexible sheets. The word “paper” is etymologically derived from Latin papyrus, which comes from the Greek πάπυρος (papuros), the word for the Cyperus papyrus plant.

    History of paper

    Paper types

    Paper is a versatile material with many uses, including writing, printing, packaging, cleaning, and a number of industrial and construction processes. Key concerns are: weight, bulk and thickness; surface and interaction with inks and printing techniques; stability over time.

    Paper sizes

    In Europe and most of the world ISO (International Standard Organisation) metric system is used. In UK this is used alongside the Imperial System. In US measurements are based on inches.

    Papermaking processes

    The modern pulp and paper industry is global, with China leading its production and the United States right behind it. There are companies developing more sustainable and environmentally-friendly was of mass producing paper using sustainable sources of raw and recycled materials, less toxic chemicals and lower energy requirements. Though in countries like India labour health concerns remain.

    Industrial papermaking

    There has also been a resurgence of interest in handmade papermaking to recycle paper and for art papers. There has also been considerable interest in traditional Asian and African papermaking processes, and ways of developing handmade papers as an income resource for poorer people.

    Handmade papermaking

    Asian and African handmade paper
    This part of the project involved exploring different types of paper and reflecting on their personal associations – smells, feel, weight and so on. Associations with paper concern not only the unprinted paper, but also the ways in which the paper interacts with different types of ink during different printmaking processes. The main characteristics I found significant were:

    • weight, thickness and transparency
    • texture, grain and surface gloss
    • absorbency to different types of media
    • ageing properties

    My explorations with paper were ongoing and further developed as I progressed with this series of projects, Assignments 4 and 5. My work here also built on work from earlier OCA Illustration, Printmaking, Painting and Photography courses where I had experimented with different types of inkjet art paper, newsprint, tissue paper, watercolour papers, Japanese and other printmaking papers and photographic papers. My conclusions on use of different types of – including technical notes – can be found from:

    Paper Types

    I made a number of new discoveries during Assignment 4:

    Tissue Paper

    Wallpaper

    OHP Transparencies

    Fabric – canvas cloths

    OHP transparency

    Inkjet printing on different types of mediums

    Handmade paper (forthcoming)

    Here I focus specifically on my learning from these projects.

    Initial collation of types of paper

    I started by putting together a list of different types of paper from Google searches on Wikipedia and books on Bookmaking. I made a collection of all the different types of paper I already had, and collected new ones through visiting craft shops and ordering on-line. This resulted in a wide range of papers of different weights and sizes to use as my stack for printing in Part 3.

    Associations with different types of paper

    Heavy papers

    Blotting paper

    My memories of blotting paper from school was of very heavy pink paper that would absorb the excess ink from a fountain pen. This recalled dark rainy winter afternoons spent making notes from history or english lessons. With inky messy fingers that were hard to get clean. Then the way it was possible to put the end of the nib on the paper and watch the pool of ink spread out, and the pictures made in the trails of blotted ink. I also remember blotting paper at the beginning of writing pads I had to use every year for Xmas Thankyou letters to relatives I hardly ever met. A mixture of  nostalgia – coloured also by old films of school like the Prime of Miss Jean Brody, Tom Brown’s school days with tales of discipline and cruelty. And boredom of dark winter days.

    I thought this paper would have an interesting dull and/or indistinct hazy effect that could be used for memories or ‘blotting out’. The ink does not stay dark, good for hazy backgrounds to contrast with sharper foregrounds if used in digital or collage montage. In the event (as people no longer regularly use fountain pens) I could only get hold of some rather refined white blotting paper from Amazon that did not have this dramatic effect I had in mind.

    Book paper

    This project was done in parallel to Assignment 4 altered book and I had collected a number of secondhand books to take apart. Books obviously use many different types of paper – some are much more glossy and expensive than others. Most of what I collected to take apart were old novels and paperbacks using relatively cheap paper. This paper had many of the qualities I was looking for in blotting paper – old memories and absorbency to spread out and dull the ink. Then the yellowing and ageing.

    Thick watercolour and ink papers

    I have experimented a lot with different types of watercolour paper and the ways they react with watercolour, ink, pencils and crayons. They remind me of creative energy watching watercolour pigments interact on the paper, and sunny holidays by the sea or in the Cambridge Botanic Gardens. Happy feel.

    The texture of the cold-pressed and Not papers is exciting because it gives more unpredictability to the line, and enable under-colours or just the creamy colour of the paper to shine through.

    I like the very smooth hot-pressed papers and the very fine and delicate pencil and watercolour effects you can get through smudging and interaction of pigments. And just the feel of the paper as you draw.

    Bristol Board – maybe because of its name – I find a bit more intimidating. Much more formal and stiff and starched – reminds me of stern landladies. It needs a bit of distressing to free up style.

    Acrylic and oil canvas papers

    These have a interesting texture that can be drawn on as well as painted. But you need to use acrylic first before oil paint – oil paint will not dry when used immediately on acrylic paper. It can also be scratched into and distressed in different ways to vary the surface texture.

    Medium papers

    cartridge drawing papers and sketchbook paper

    coloured pastel and drawing paper

    lined writing paper

    graph and isometric paper

    Light thin papers

    I really like the delicacy of these papers, the sounds they make, the ways they can be crumpled, layered, printed or drawn on both back and front to show through. But they tend to jam an inkjet printer unless fixed beforehand to a thicker sheet. Temporary foxing can be done onto OHP transparency – be careful of edges that can come up and jam the print.

    tracing paper, greaseproof paper, glassene paper: all have a shiny and non-transparent surface that can be used to blurr ink. The ink can also be smeared after printing. The thinner papers buckle slightly than can give an interesting effect eg when scanned.

    newsprint: this is easily obtained in large rolls, and will go through the inkjet printer. I like the shininess and the slightly dappled effect with ink when used for eg linocut.

    Japanese and Chinese papers: these will only just go through an inkjet printer with care. But can give quite a sharp print – depending on whether the smooth or backside of the paper is used. This reminds me of happy days experimenting with monoprint.

    tissue paper: this includes non-absorbent tissue paper used for interleaving prints – this can produce really interesting effects when crumpled and used for cleaning up after printmaking.

    Inkjet paper

    • Inkjet fine art papers
    • glossy photo paper
    • matt photo paper
    • satin photo paper
    • OHP transparency

    I also ordered different inkjet mediums to enable me to use paint and other media without damaging the printer.

    Photography papers

    matt, glossy and silk

    Ephemera and printed paper

    • wallpaper
    • wrapping paper
    • metallic papers
    • alluminium foil
    • tickets, flyers, printed material or mementos or souvenirs of exhibitions, occasions and days out.
    • canvas and fabrics

    Further explorations:

    • Making my own handmade paper (forthcoming)
    • Printing by hand on cardboard and other types of surface that will not go through my inkjet printer.

     

     

     

  • Digital Printing

    THE PIXEL: A FUNDAMENTAL UNIT OF DIGITAL IMAGES

    Every digital image consists of a fundamental small-scale descriptor: THE PIXEL, invented by combining the words “PICture ELement.” Each pixel contains a series of numbers which describe its color or intensity. The precision to which a pixel can specify color is called its bit or color depth. The more pixels your image contains, the more detail it has the ability to describe (although more pixels alone don’t necessarily result in more detail; more on this later).

    PRINT SIZE: PIXELS PER INCH vs. DOTS PER INCH

    Since a pixel is just a unit of information, it is useless for describing real-world prints — unless you also specify their size. The terms pixels per inch (PPI) and dots per inch (DPI) were both introduced to relate this theoretical pixel unit to real-world visual resolution. These terms are often inaccurately interchanged — misleading the user about a device’s maximum print resolution (particularly with inkjet printers).

    “Pixels per inch” (PPI) is the more straightforward of the two terms. It describes just that: how many pixels an image contains per inch of distance (horizontally or vertically). PPI is also universal because it describes resolution in a way that doesn’t vary from device to device.

    “Dots per inch” (DPI) may seem deceptively simple at first, but the complication arises because multiple dots are often needed to create a single pixel — and this varies from device to device. In other words, a given DPI does not always lead to the same resolution. Using multiple dots to create each pixel is a process called “dithering.”

    Printers use dithering to create the appearance of more colors than they actually have. However, this trick comes at the expense of resolution, since dithering requires each pixel to be created from an even smaller pattern of dots. As a result, images will require more DPI than PPI in order to depict the same level of detail.

    In the above example, note how the dithered version is able to create the appearance of 128 pixel colors — even though it has far fewer dot colors (only 24). However, this result is only possible because each dot in the dithered image is much smaller than the pixels.

    The standard for prints done in a photo lab is about 300 PPI, but inkjet printers require several times this number of DPI (depending on the number of ink colors) for photographic quality. The required resolution also depends on the application; magazine and newspaper prints can get away with much less than 300 PPI.

    However, the more you try to enlarge a given image, the lower its PPI will become…

    MEGAPIXELS AND MAXIMUM PRINT SIZE

    A “megapixel” is simply a million pixels. If you require a certain resolution of detail (PPI), then there is a maximum print size you can achieve for a given number of megapixels. The following chart gives the maximum print sizes for several common camera megapixels.

    # of Megapixels Maximum 3:2 Print Size
    at 300 PPI: at 200 PPI:
    2 5.8″ x 3.8″ 8.7″ x 5.8″
    3 7.1″ x 4.7″ 10.6″ x 7.1″
    4 8.2″ x 5.4″ 12.2″ x 8.2″
    5 9.1″ x 6.1″ 13.7″ x 9.1″
    6 10.0″ x 6.7″ 15.0″ x 10.0″
    8 11.5″ x 7.7″ 17.3″ x 11.5″
    12 14.1″ x 9.4″ 21.2″ x 14.1″
    16 16.3″ x 10.9″ 24.5″ x 16.3″
    22 19.1″ x 12.8″ 28.7″ x 19.1″

    Note how a 2 megapixel camera cannot even make a standard 4×6 inch print at 300 PPI, whereas it requires a whopping 16 megapixels to make a 16×10 inch photo. This may be discouraging, but do not despair! Many will be happy with the sharpness provided by 200 PPI, although an even lower PPI may suffice if the viewing distance is large (see “Digital Photo Enlargement“). For example, most wall posters are often printed at less than 200 PPI, since it’s assumed that you won’t be inspecting them from 6 inches away.

    CAMERA & IMAGE ASPECT RATIO

    The print size calculations above assumed that the camera’s aspect ratio, or ratio of longest to shortest dimension, is the standard 3:2 used for 35 mm cameras. In fact, most compact cameras, monitors and TV screens have a 4:3 aspect ratio, while most digital SLR cameras are 3:2. Many other types exist though: some high end film equipment even use a 1:1 square image, and DVD movies are an elongated 16:9 ratio.

    This means that if your camera uses a 4:3 aspect ratio, but you need a 4 x 6 inch (3:2) print, then some of your megapixels will be wasted (11%). This should be considered if your camera has a different ratio than the desired print dimensions.

    Pixels themselves can also have their own aspect ratio, although this is less common. Certain video standards and earlier Nikon cameras have pixels with skewed dimensions.

    SENSOR SIZE: NOT ALL PIXELS ARE CREATED EQUAL

    Even if two cameras have the same number of pixels, it does not necessarily mean that the size of their pixels are also equal. The main distinguishing factor between a more expensive digital SLR and a compact camera is that the former has a much greater digital sensor area. This means that if both an SLR and a compact camera have the same number of pixels, the size of each pixel in the SLR camera will be much larger.

    Compact Camera Sensor
    SLR Camera Sensor

    Why does one care about how big the pixels are? A larger pixel has more light-gathering area, which means the light signal is stronger over a given interval of time.

    This usually results in an improved signal to noise ratio (SNR), which createsa smoother and more detailed image. Furthermore, the dynamic range of the images (range of light to dark which the camera can capture without becoming either black or clipping highlights) also increases with larger pixels. This is because each pixel well can contain more photons before it fills up and becomes completely white.

    The diagram below illustrates the relative size of several standard sensor sizes on the market today. Most digital SLR’s have either a 1.5X or 1.6X crop factor (compared to 35 mm film), although some high-end models actually have a digital sensor which has the same area as 35 mm. Sensor size labels given in inches do not reflect the actual diagonal size, but instead reflect the approximate diameter of the “imaging circle” (not fully utilized). Nevertheless, this number is in the specifications of most compact cameras.

    Why not just use the largest sensor possible? The main disadvantage of having a larger sensor is that they are much more expensive, so they are not always beneficial.

    Other factors are beyond the scope of this tutorial, however more can be read on the following points:larger sensors requiresmaller apertures in order to achieve the same depth of field, however they are alsoless susceptible to diffraction at a given aperture.

    Does all this mean it is bad to squeeze more pixels into the same sensor area? This will usually produce more noise, but only when viewed at 100% on your computer monitor. In an actual print, the higher megapixel model’s noise will be much more finely spaced — even though it appears noisier on screen (see “Image Noise: Frequency and Magnitude“). This advantage usually offsets any increase in noise when going to a larger megapixel model (with a few exceptions).

  • Golden Ratio

    Sources: Elaine J. Hom, LiveScience Contributor | June 24, 2013 07:02pm ET

    What is the Golden Ratio?

    In the golden ratio, a + b is to a as a is to b.

    The Golden ratio is a special number found by dividing a line into two parts so that the longer part divided by the smaller part is also equal to the whole length divided by the longer part. It is often symbolized using phi, after the 21st letter of the Greek alphabet. In an equation form, it looks like this:

    a/b = (a+b)/a = 1.6180339887498948420 …

    As with pi (the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter), the digits go on and on, theoretically into infinity. Phi is usually rounded off to 1.618. This number has been discovered and rediscovered many times, which is why it has so many names — the Golden mean, the Golden section, divine proportion, etc.

    Golden Rectangle

    Golden Ratio Construction

    Golden Spiral

    To form a golden rectangle from a square, the square is divided in half. The diagonal of the half square is rotated to the horizontal, defining the length of the rectangle.

    Golden ratio in history

    Historically, the golden ratio can be seen in the architecture of many ancient creations, like the Great Pyramids and the Parthenon. In the Great Pyramid of Giza, the length of each side of the base is 756 feet with a height of 481 feet. The ratio of the base to the height is roughly 1.5717, which is close to the Golden ratio.

    Phidias (500 B.C. – 432 B.C.) was a Greek sculptor and mathematician who is thought to have applied phi to the design of sculptures for the Parthenon.

    Golden ration and pentagram

    Plato (428 B.C. – 347 B.C.) considered the Golden ratio to be the most universally binding of mathematical relationships.

    Later, Euclid (365 B.C. – 300 B.C.) linked the Golden ratio to the construction of a pentagram.

    Around 1200, mathematician Leonardo Fibonacci discovered the unique properties of the Fibonacci sequence. This sequence ties directly into the Golden ratio because if you take any two successive Fibonacci numbers, their ratio is very close to the Golden ratio. As the numbers get higher, the ratio becomes even closer to 1.618. For example, the ratio of 3 to 5 is 1.666. But the ratio of 13 to 21 is 1.625. Getting even higher, the ratio of 144 to 233 is 1.618. These numbers are all successive numbers in the Fibonacci sequence.

    These numbers can be applied to the proportions of a rectangle, called the Golden rectangle. This is known as one of the most visually satisfying of all geometric forms – hence, the appearance of the Golden ratio in art. The Golden rectangle is also related to the Golden spiral, which is created by making adjacent squares of Fibonacci dimensions.

    In 1509, Luca Pacioli wrote a book that refers to the number as the “Divine Proportion,” which was illustrated by Leonardo da Vinci. Da Vinci later called this sectio aurea or the Golden section. The Golden ratio was used to achieve balance and beauty in many Renaissance paintings and sculptures. Da Vinci himself used the Golden ratio to define all of the proportions in his Last Supper, including the dimensions of the table and the proportions of the walls and backgrounds. The Golden ratio also appears in da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man and the Mona Lisa.

    Other artists who employed the Golden ratio include Michelangelo, Raphael, Rembrandt, Seurat, and Salvador Dali.

    The term “phi” was coined by American mathematician Mark Barr in the 1900s. Phi has continued to appear in mathematics and physics, including the 1970s Penrose Tiles, which allowed surfaces to be tiled in five-fold symmetry. In the 1980s, phi appeared in quasi crystals, a then-newly discovered form of matter.

    Golden Ratio in nature

    Phi is more than an obscure term found in mathematics and physics. It appears around us in our daily lives, even in our aesthetic views.

    Flower petals: The number of petals on some flowers follows the Fibonacci sequence. It is believed that in the Darwinian processes, each petal is placed to allow for the best possible exposure to sunlight and other factors.

    Seed heads: The seeds of a flower are often produced at the center and migrate outward to fill the space. For example, sunflowers follow this pattern. Sunflower seeds grow in Fibonacci spirals.

    Tree branches: The way tree branches form or split is an example of the Fibonacci sequence. Root systems and algae exhibit this formation pattern.

    Pinecones: The spiral pattern of the seed pods spiral upward in opposite directions. The number of steps the spirals take tend to match Fibonacci numbers.

    Human and animal bodies: The measurement of the human navel to the floor and the top of the head to the navel is the Golden ratio.

    Golden ratio in human anatomy Zeisling

    The length of our fingers, each section from the tip of the base to the wrist is larger than the preceding one by roughly the ratio of phi.

    Studies have shown that when test subjects view random faces, the ones they deem most attractive are those with solid parallels to the Golden ratio. Faces judged as the most attractive show Golden ratio proportions between the width of the face and the width of the eyes, nose, and eyebrows. The test subjects weren’t mathematicians or physicists familiar with phi — they were just average people, and the Golden ratio elicited an instinctual reaction.

    Dolphins, starfish, sand dollars, sea urchins, ants, honeybees  also exhibit the proportion. Many shells, including snail shells and nautilus shellsare perfect examples of the Golden spiral.


    DNA molecules: A DNA molecule measures 34 angstroms by 21 angstroms at each full cycle of the double helix spiral. In the Fibonacci series, 34 and 21 are successive numbers.

    Spiral galaxies: The Milky Way has a number of spiral arms, each of which has a logarithmic spiral of roughly 12 degrees. The shape of the spiral is identical to the Golden spiral, and the Golden rectangle can be drawn over any spiral galaxy.

    Hurricanes: Much like shells, hurricanes often display the Golden spiral.

  • Colour in photography and film: digital colour management

     Sources

    Cambridge in Colour: Colour Management and Printing series

    Underlying concepts and principles: Human Perception; Bit DepthBasics of digital cameras: pixels

    Color Management from camera to display Part 1: Concept and Overview; Part 2: Color Spaces; Part 3: Color Space Conversion; Understanding Gamma Correction

    Bit Depth

    Every color pixel in a digital image is created through some combination of the three primary colors: red, green, and blue –  often referred to as a “color channel”. Bit depth quantifies how many unique colors are available in an image’s color palette in terms of the number of 0’s and 1’s, or “bits,” which are used to specify each color channel (bpc) or per pixel (bpp). Images with higher bit depths can encode more shades or colors – or intensity of values -since there are more combinations of 0’s and 1’s available.

    Most color images from digital cameras have 8-bits per channel and so they can use a total of eight 0’s and 1’s. This allows for 28 or 256 different combinations—translating into 256 different intensity values for each primary color. When all three primary colors are combined at each pixel, this allows for as many as 28*3 or 16,777,216 different colors, or “true color.” This is referred to as 24 bits per pixel since each pixel is composed of three 8-bit color channels. The number of colors available for any X-bit image is just 2X if X refers to the bits per pixel and 23X if X refers to the bits per channel. The following table illustrates different image types in terms of bits (bit depth), total colors available, and common names.

    Bits Per Pixel Number of Colors Available Common Name(s)
    1 2 Monochrome
    2 4 CGA
    4 16 EGA
    8 256 VGA
    16 65536 XGA, High Color
    24 16777216 SVGA, True Color
    32 16777216 + Transparency
    48 281 Trillion
    USEFUL TIPS
    • The human eye can only discern about 10 million different colors, so saving an image in any more than 24 bpp is excessive if the only intended purpose is for viewing. On the other hand, images with more than 24 bpp are still quite useful since they hold up better under post-processing (see “Posterization Tutorial“).
    • Color gradations in images with less than 8-bits per color channel can be clearly seen in the image histogram.
    • The available bit depth settings depend on the file type. Standard JPEG and TIFF files can only use 8-bits and 16-bits per channel, respectively.

    BASICS OF DIGITAL CAMERA PIXELS

    The continuous advance of digital camera technology can be quite confusing because new terms are constantly being introduced. This tutorial aims to clear up some of this digital pixel confusion — particularly for those who are either considering or have just purchased their first digital camera. Concepts such as sensor size, megapixels, dithering and print size are discussed.

    OVERVIEW OF COLOR MANAGEMENT

    “Color management” is a process where the color characteristics for every device in the imaging chain is known precisely and utilized in color reproduction. It often occurs behind the scenes and doesn’t require any intervention, but when color problems arise, understanding this process can be critical.

    In digital photography, this imaging chain usually starts with the camera and concludes with the final print, and may include a display device in between:

    digital imaging chain

    Many other imaging chains exist, but in general, any device which attempts to reproduce color can benefit from color management. For example, with photography it is often critical that your prints or online gallery appear how they were intended. Color management cannot guarantee identical color reproduction, as this is rarely possible, but it can at least give you more control over any changes which may occur.

    THE NEED FOR PROFILES & REFERENCE COLORS

    Color reproduction has a fundamental problem: a given “color number” doesn’t necessarily produce the same color in all devices. We use an example of spiciness to convey both why this creates a problem, and how it is managed.

    Let’s say that you’re at a restaurant and are about to order a spicy dish. Although you enjoy spiciness, your taste buds are quite sensitive, so you want to be careful that you specify a pleasurable amount. The dilemma is this: simply saying “medium” might convey one level of spice to a cook in Thailand, and a completely different level to someone from England. Restaurants could standardize this based on the number of peppers included in the dish, but this alone wouldn’t be sufficient. Spice also depends on how sensitive the taster is to each pepper:

    calibration table

    To solve your spiciness dilemma, you could undergo a one-time taste test where you eat a series of dishes, with each containing slightly more peppers (shown above). You could then create a personalized table to carry with you at restaurants which specifies that 3 equals “mild,” 5 equals “medium,” and so on (assuming that all peppers are the same). Next time, when you visit a restaurant and say “medium,” the waiter could look at your personal table and translate this into a standardized concentration of peppers. This waiter could then go to the cook and say to make the dish “extra mild,” knowing all too well what this concentration of peppers would actually mean to the cook.

    As a whole, this process involved (1) characterizing each person’s sensitivity to spice, (2)standardizing this spice based on a concentration of peppers and (3) being able to collectively use this information to translate the “medium” value from one person into an “extra mild” value for another. These same three principles are used to manage color.

    COLOR PROFILES

    A device’s color response is characterized similar to how the personalized spiciness table was created in the above example. Various numbers are sent to this device, and its output is measured in each instance:

    Input Number (Green) Output Color
    Device 1 Device 2
    200
    150
    100
    50

    Real-world color profiles include all three colors, more values, and are usually more sophisticated than the above table — but the same core principles apply. However, just as with the spiciness example, a profile on its own is insufficient. These profiles have to be recorded in relation to standardized reference colors, and you need color-aware software that can use these profiles to translate color between devices.

    COLOR MANAGEMENT OVERVIEW

    Putting it all together, the following diagram shows how these concepts might apply when converting color between a display device and a printer:

    display device printer output device
    Characterized
    Input Device
    Standardized
    Profile Connection Space
    Characterized
    Output Device
    Additive RGB Colors
    RGB
    Color Profile
    (color space)
    CMM Translation CMM Translation Subtractive CMYK Colors
    CMYK
    Color Profile
    (color space)
    1. Characterize. Every color-managed device requires a personalized table, or “color profile,” which characterizes the color response of that particular device.
    2. Standardize. Each color profile describes these colors relative to a standardized set of reference colors (the “Profile Connection Space”).
    3. Translate. Color-managed software then uses these standardized profiles to translate color from one device to another. This is usually performed by a color management module (CMM).

    The above color management system was standardized by the International Color Consortium (ICC), and is now used in most computers. It involves several key concepts: color profiles (discussed above), color spaces, and translation between color spaces.

    Color Space. This is just a way of referring to the collection of colors/shades that are described by a particular color profile. Put another way, it describes the set of all realizable color combinations. Color spaces are therefore useful tools for understanding the color compatibility between two different devices. See the tutorial on color spaces for more on this topic.

    Profile Connection Space (PCS). This is a color space that serves as a standardized reference (a “reference space”), since it is independent of any particular device’s characteristics. The PCS is usually the set of all visible colors defined by the Commission International de l’éclairage (CIE) and used by the ICC.

    Note: The thin trapezoidal region drawn within the PCS is what is called a “working space.” The working space is used in image editing programs (such as Adobe Photoshop), and defines the subset of colors available to work with when performing any image editing.

    Color Translation. The color management module (CMM) is the workhorse of color management, and is what performs all the calculations needed to translate from one color space into another. Contrary to previous examples, this is rarely a clean and simple process. For example, what if the printer weren’t capable of producing as intense a color as the display device? This is called a “gamut mismatch,” and would mean that accurate reproduction is impossible. In such cases the CMM therefore just has to aim for the best approximation that it can. See the tutorial on color space conversion for more on this topic.

    UNDERSTANDING GAMMA CORRECTION

    Gamma is an important but seldom understood characteristic of virtually all digital imaging systems. It defines the relationship between a pixel’s numerical value and its actual luminance. Without gamma, shades captured by digital cameras wouldn’t appear as they did to our eyes (on a standard monitor). It’s also referred to as gamma correction, gamma encoding or gamma compression, but these all refer to a similar concept. Understanding how gamma works can improve one’s exposure technique, in addition to helping one make the most of image editing.

    WHY GAMMA IS USEFUL

    1. Our eyes do not perceive light the way cameras do. With a digital camera, when twice the number of photons hit the sensor, it receives twice the signal (a “linear” relationship). Pretty logical, right? That’s not how our eyes work. Instead, we perceive twice the light as being only a fraction brighter — and increasingly so for higher light intensities (a “nonlinear” relationship).

    linear vs nonlinear gamma - cameras vs human eyes
    Reference Tone
    Perceived as 50% as Bright
    by Our Eyes
    Detected as 50% as Bright
    by the Camera

    Refer to the tutorial on the photoshop curves tool if you’re having trouble interpreting the graph.
    Accuracy of comparison depends on having a well-calibrated monitor set to a display gamma of 2.2.
    Actual perception will depend on viewing conditions, and may be affected by other nearby tones.
    For extremely dim scenes, such as under starlight, our eyes begin to see linearly like cameras do.

    Compared to a camera, we are much more sensitive to changes in dark tones than we are to similar changes in bright tones. There’s a biological reason for this peculiarity: it enables our vision to operate over a broader range of luminance. Otherwise the typical range in brightness we encounter outdoors would be too overwhelming.

    But how does all of this relate to gamma? In this case, gamma is what translates between our eye’s light sensitivity and that of the camera. When a digital image is saved, it’s therefore “gamma encoded” — so that twice the value in a file more closely corresponds to what we would perceive as being twice as bright.

    Technical Note: Gamma is defined by Vout = Vingamma , where Vout is the output luminance value and Vin is the input/actual luminance value. This formula causes the blue line above to curve. When gamma<1, the line arches upward, whereas the opposite occurs with gamma>1.

    2. Gamma encoded images store tones more efficiently. Since gamma encoding redistributes tonal levels closer to how our eyes perceive them, fewer bits are needed to describe a given tonal range. Otherwise, an excess of bits would be devoted to describe the brighter tones (where the camera is relatively more sensitive), and a shortage of bits would be left to describe the darker tones (where the camera is relatively less sensitive):

    Original: smooth 8-bit gradient (256 levels)
    Encoded using only 32 levels (5 bits)
    Linear
    Encoding:
    linearly encoded gradient
    Gamma
    Encoding:
    gamma encoded gradient

    Note: Above gamma encoded gradient shown using a standard value of 1/2.2
    See the tutorial on bit depth for a background on the relationship between levels and bits.

    Notice how the linear encoding uses insufficient levels to describe the dark tones — even though this leads to an excess of levels to describe the bright tones. On the other hand, the gamma encoded gradient distributes the tones roughly evenly across the entire range (“perceptually uniform”). This also ensures that subsequent image editing, color andhistograms are all based on natural, perceptually uniform tones.

    However, real-world images typically have at least 256 levels (8 bits), which is enough to make tones appear smooth and continuous in a print. If linear encoding were used instead, 8X as many levels (11 bits) would’ve been required to avoid image posterization.

    GAMMA WORKFLOW: ENCODING & CORRECTION

    Despite all of these benefits, gamma encoding adds a layer of complexity to the whole process of recording and displaying images. The next step is where most people get confused, so take this part slowly. A gamma encoded image has to have “gamma correction” applied when it is viewed — which effectively converts it back into light from the original scene. In other words, the purpose of gamma encoding is for recording the image — not for displaying the image. Fortunately this second step (the “display gamma”) is automatically performed by your monitor and video card. The following diagram illustrates how all of this fits together:

    RAW Camera Image is Saved as a JPEG File JPEG is Viewed on a Computer Monitor Net Effect
    image file gamma + display gamma = system gamma
    1. Image File Gamma 2. Display Gamma 3. System Gamma

    1. Depicts an image in the sRGB color space (which encodes using a gamma of approx. 1/2.2).
    2. Depicts a display gamma equal to the standard of 2.2

    1. Image Gamma. This is applied either by your camera or RAW development software whenever a captured image is converted into a standard JPEG or TIFF file. It redistributes native camera tonal levels into ones which are more perceptually uniform, thereby making the most efficient use of a given bit depth.

    2. Display Gamma. This refers to the net influence of your video card and display device, so it may in fact be comprised of several gammas. The main purpose of the display gamma is to compensate for a file’s gamma — thereby ensuring that the image isn’t unrealistically brightened when displayed on your screen. A higher display gamma results in a darker image with greater contrast.

    3. System Gamma. This represents the net effect of all gamma values that have been applied to an image, and is also referred to as the “viewing gamma.” For faithful reproduction of a scene, this should ideally be close to a straight line (gamma = 1.0). A straight line ensures that the input (the original scene) is the same as the output (the light displayed on your screen or in a print). However, the system gamma is sometimes set slightly greater than 1.0 in order to improve contrast. This can help compensate for limitations due to the dynamic range of a display device, or due to non-ideal viewing conditions and image flare.

    IMAGE FILE GAMMA

    The precise image gamma is usually specified by a color profile that is embedded within the file. Most image files use an encoding gamma of 1/2.2 (such as those using sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998 color), but the big exception is with RAW files, which use a linear gamma. However, RAW image viewers typically show these presuming a standard encoding gamma of 1/2.2, since they would otherwise appear too dark:

    linear RAWLinear RAW Image
    (image gamma = 1.0)
    gamma encoded sRGB imageGamma Encoded Image
    (image gamma = 1/2.2)

    If no color profile is embedded, then a standard gamma of 1/2.2 is usually assumed. Files without an embedded color profile typically include many PNG and GIF files, in addition to some JPEG images that were created using a “save for the web” setting.

    Technical Note on Camera Gamma. Most digital cameras record light linearly, so their gamma is assumed to be 1.0, but near the extreme shadows and highlights this may not hold true. In that case, the file gamma may represent a combination of the encoding gamma and the camera’s gamma. However, the camera’s gamma is usually negligible by comparison. Camera manufacturers might also apply subtle tonal curves, which can also impact a file’s gamma.

    DISPLAY GAMMA

    This is the gamma that you are controlling when you perform monitor calibration and adjust your contrast setting. Fortunately, the industry has converged on a standard display gamma of 2.2, so one doesn’t need to worry about the pros/cons of different values. Older macintosh computers used a display gamma of 1.8, which made non-mac images appear brighter relative to a typical PC, but this is no longer the case.

    Recall that the display gamma compensates for the image file’s gamma, and that the net result of this compensation is the system/overall gamma. For a standard gamma encoded image file (), changing the display gamma () will therefore have the following overall impact () on an image:

    gamma curves chart with a display gamma of 1.0
    Display Gamma 1.0 Gamma 1.0
    gamma curves chart with a display gamma of 1.8
    Display Gamma 1.8 Gamma 1.8
    gamma curves chart with a display gamma of 2.2
    Display Gamma 2.2 Gamma 2.2
    gamma curves chart with a display gamma of 4.0
    Display Gamma 4.0 Gamma 4.0

    Diagrams assume that your display has been calibrated to a standard gamma of 2.2.
    Recall from before that the image file gamma () plus the display gamma () equals the overall system gamma (). Also note how higher gamma values cause the red curve to bend downward.

    If you’re having trouble following the above charts, don’t despair! It’s a good idea to first have an understanding of how tonal curves impact image brightness and contrast. Otherwise you can just look at the portrait images for a qualitative understanding.

    How to interpret the charts. The first picture (far left) gets brightened substantially because the image gamma () is uncorrected by the display gamma (), resulting in an overall system gamma () that curves upward. In the second picture, the display gamma doesn’t fully correct for the image file gamma, resulting in an overall system gamma that still curves upward a little (and therefore still brightens the image slightly). In the third picture, the display gamma exactly corrects the image gamma, resulting in an overall linear system gamma. Finally, in the fourth picture the display gamma over-compensates for the image gamma, resulting in an overall system gamma that curves downward (thereby darkening the image).

    The overall display gamma is actually comprised of (i) the native monitor/LCD gamma and (ii) any gamma corrections applied within the display itself or by the video card. However, the effect of each is highly dependent on the type of display device.

    CRT Monitor LCD Monitor
    CRT Monitors LCD (Flat Panel) Monitors

    CRT Monitors. Due to an odd bit of engineering luck, the native gamma of a CRT is 2.5 — almost the inverse of our eyes. Values from a gamma-encoded file could therefore be sent straight to the screen and they would automatically be corrected and appear nearly OK. However, a small gamma correction of ~1/1.1 needs to be applied to achieve an overall display gamma of 2.2. This is usually already set by the manufacturer’s default settings, but can also be set during monitor calibration.

    LCD Monitors. LCD monitors weren’t so fortunate; ensuring an overall display gamma of 2.2 often requires substantial corrections, and they are also much less consistent than CRT’s. LCDs therefore require something called a look-up table (LUT) in order to ensure that input values are depicted using the intended display gamma (amongst other things). See the tutorial on monitor calibration: look-up tables for more on this topic.

    Technical Note: The display gamma can be a little confusing because this term is often used interchangeably with gamma correction, since it corrects for the file gamma. However, the values given for each are not always equivalent. Gamma correction is sometimes specified in terms of the encoding gamma that it aims to compensate for — not the actual gamma that is applied. For example, the actual gamma applied with a “gamma correction of 1.5” is often equal to 1/1.5, since a gamma of 1/1.5 cancels a gamma of 1.5 (1.5 * 1/1.5 = 1.0). A higher gamma correction value might therefore brighten the image (the opposite of a higher display gamma).

    OTHER NOTES & FURTHER READING

    Other important points and clarifications are listed below.

    • Dynamic Range. In addition to ensuring the efficient use of image data, gamma encoding also actually increases the recordable dynamic range for a given bit depth. Gamma can sometimes also help a display/printer manage its limited dynamic range (compared to the original scene) by improving image contrast.
    • Gamma Correction. The term “gamma correction” is really just a catch-all phrase for when gamma is applied to offset some other earlier gamma. One should therefore probably avoid using this term if the specific gamma type can be referred to instead.
    • Gamma Compression & Expansion. These terms refer to situations where the gamma being applied is less than or greater than one, respectively. A file gamma could therefore be considered gamma compression, whereas a display gamma could be considered gamma expansion.
    • Applicability. Strictly speaking, gamma refers to a tonal curve which follows a simple power law (where Vout = Vingamma), but it’s often used to describe other tonal curves. For example, the sRGB color space is actually linear at very low luminosity, but then follows a curve at higher luminosity values. Neither the curve nor the linear region follow a standard gamma power law, but the overall gamma is approximated as 2.2.
    • Is Gamma Required? No, linear gamma (RAW) images would still appear as our eyes saw them — but only if these images were shown on a linear gamma display. However, this would negate gamma’s ability to efficiently record tonal levels.

    For more on this topic, also visit the following tutorials:

    In gathering together all the information for a book in order to design and lay out the pages,
    you’ll usually be working with images – photographs and illustrations – scanned and saved at
    300dpi and saved in CMYK mode (see below).
    In this project you’ll look at managing colour within the pre-print process. The designer is the
    ‘bridge’ between the original manuscript and the printed product so it helps to have a good
    understanding of the colour management process involved prior to print production, so that you
    can manage your book project accordingly.
    Colour theory – RGB
    When you lay out your pages using DTP
    software, you work with digitised images,
    usually viewing your work via a computer
    monitor. Screens, TVs and monitors all work
    on the principle of transmitted white light,
    which is created from mixing Red, Green and
    Blue light. Therefore, we refer to this colour
    mode as ‘RGB’ or ‘additive colour’.
    CMYK
    It is important to be aware that although we are looking at a RGB colour monitor, and we
    perceive colours via this means, when it comes to printing we have to use physical pigment
    in the form of inks as opposed to light waves. The colour system used for printing is known as
    ‘subtractive colour’ or CMYK.
    Cyan, Magenta and Yellow, when mixed together, form a dull sort of brown, which isn’t quite
    black. So Black is added as a fourth colour and is represented here by the letter ‘K’. (This stands
    for ‘Key’ in printers’ terms rather than ‘B’, which may get confused with ‘Blue’.)
    Project Managing colour
    RGB additive colour
    A CMYK strip, often visible on newspaper margins – but without the identifying
    letters. These strips form part of the quality control process, enabling the print
    manager to see that all inks are running to correct capacity.
    Book Design 1 81
    Colour matching
    CMYK forms the colour-printing process for much printed material, and you need to be aware
    that the colours you’ll see on-screen will not be the same as the printouts you receive as ‘proofs’
    from the printer. Who hasn’t printed out something from their desktop printer and exclaimed
    ‘the colour’s nothing like that!’? When it comes to expensive print processes, you can’t afford
    unpleasant suprises in terms of colour reproduction; you have to be sure exactly how the colour
    is going to turn out. So you have to establish a way to calibrate your colours at the outset,
    so that you know exactly how any particular colour will turn out. One way of doing this is to
    work with CMYK sample books that printers provide. This enables you to specify exactly the
    proportions of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black that are contained in any colour. You can then
    input these specifications into your DTP document and then rest assured that, although it may
    not look entirely right on-screen, it will match when you come to print it out because it is set up
    to the printer’s CMYK requirements, and not the computer’s inherent RGB mode.
    Pantone
    Another way of matching colour is to use a Pantone swatch book. Pantone is the trademark
    name for a range of ready-mixed inks, also sometimes known as ‘spot colours’. The Pantone
    range encompasses a wide range of colours, including metallic and pastels. Pantone Reference
    swatches can give both the Pantone ink number, plus the corresponding CMYK specification.
    Pantone ‘Solid to Process’ swatch book
    82 Book Design 1
    Halftone screens
    In order to print a continuous tone image
    – such as a photograph, illustration or
    artwork – using the CMYK four-colour
    printing process, the image has first to be
    converted from a continuous tone image
    to a series of lines. In order to facilitate
    this the image goes through a ‘halftone
    screening’ process – so that the colours
    within the photogaph can ultimately be
    reproduced by using the printing colours
    CMYK.
    The majority of printed photographs and artwork we see in books, newspapers and magazines
    are made up of many CMYK dots of varying sizes. These are printed via four screens, one for
    each of the print colours, set at different angles.
    The Black screen is set to 45 degrees, Magenta at 75°, 90° for Yellow and 105° for Cyan.
    You can see the evidence of this process when you look at a four-colour process (CMYK) printed
    photograph through a magnifiying lens or loupe. You’ll see clearly that the image is composed
    from those four inks, and it is their relative proximity, size and overlap that creates various
    colours and in this way re-presents continuous tone images. The size of the screen affects the
    quality of the image printed: the finer the screen, the better the image quality. Pictures printed
    on newsprint, for example, are printed via a relatively coarse screen, at 55lpi (lines per inch)
    whereas the images for books are printed using a higher grade screen, such as 170lpi. Within
    photo editing software there are options to adjust the settings for halftone screens, changing
    the shape and size of the dot elements.
    Moiré
    A moiré pattern occurs when screens are overlaid onto each other and the resulting image
    becomes distorted. The moiré effect is noticeable when the colours start to visually mix, in a
    swirly, jarring way. You can see it, for example, if you are watching someone on TV wearing a
    dogtooth jacket; the lines clash and this causes a visual interference.
    You need to be aware of moiré pattern when you scan images that have been printed once
    already, as they have already undergone a screening process. To offset this, you can apply the
    ‘Descreen’ option in photo editing software, and this removes the problem.