The traditional colours of Japan are a collection of colours traditionally used in Japanese art, literature, textiles such as kimono, and other Japanese arts and crafts.
Standardisation of the Japanese colour wheel was conducted around 600AD and western recognition of it was as late as the mid-19th century, because Japan was largely secluded from the rest of the globe until that time.
Japanese Colour Wheel
Consisting of the primary colours: Red, Yellow and Blue, as well as the neutrals, both Black and White, the Japanese colour wheel spins with reference to the natural elements and is used as a tool to interpret the Japanese theory itself.
The earliest written history of Japan, which was a mix of fact and mythology, mentions the four oldest colour terms in the Japanese language: aka 赤 or red, kuro 黒 or black, shiro 白 or white, and ao 青 or blue. However, it has been proposed that these terms originally referred to the contrasting optical sensations of light and dark, clear and vague.
With time, these ancient colour terms evolved to have the red, black, white and blue meanings in use today (as well as acquiring other symbolic meanings, which we’ll get to later). However, traces of the original four colours persist in modern Japanese. Most proverbs and surnames that mention colour, for example, often involve these four colours. Additionally, only these four colours can be prefixed with the “pure” and “genuine” ma 真, to give us makka 真っ赤 or bright red, makkuro 真っ黒 or pitch black, masshiro 真っ白 or pure white, massao 真っ青 or deep blue.
Similarly, the original ambiguity of ao appears to have stood the test of time. A vague, overlapping, blue-green colour band, termed “grue” in anthropological lingo, may be used to describe the bluish-green (or greenish-blue?) of ao – which is notorious for causing the Western confusion between aoshingou 青信号 and “green traffic light.” Or aonegi 青ネギ and “green spring onion.”
The Japanese Cap and Rank System
The traditional colours of Japan trace their historical origins to the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System which was established in 603 by Prince Shōtoku – the pioneer of japanese unification – and based on the five Chinese elements.
In this system, rank and social hierarchy were displayed and determined by certain colors. Colors known as kinjiki (禁色, “forbidden colors“) were strictly reserved for the robes of the highest ranking government officials; for example, the color ōtan (orange) was used as the color for the robes of kuge and use by any other lower rank was prohibited.
The original Japanese system consisted of 12 levels, symbolised by 2 shades of 6 colours. Dark and light shades of, purple, blue, red, yellow, white, and black were used to show virtue and demonstrate an official position. Purple being ranked 1, while black is ranked 12.
Colors known as yurushiiro (許し色, “permissible colors”) were permitted for use by the common people.
Many of the names of these colours originate from Chinese culture, where the hierarchical colour system was historically even more complex. Due to the long history of use of this color system, some variations in color and names exist.
Other pigments
The names of traditional colours are often related to native plants and animals, especially those used to make pigments and dyes. Certain colours and dyeing techniques have been used since the Asuka period, while others had been developed as late as the Meiji period when synthetic dyes became common.
An example of this would be the Japanese color name, akaneiro 茜色, which was produced by creating a dye from the root of a plant called akane grass. Another perhaps more familiar example is azukiiro 小豆色, or the color of azuki beans (aka the most delicious thing ever, often the filling of daifuku mochi).
Colours were also named after animals, the most popular choice seems to be the mouse, or nezumi, which is used to express grey tones. For example budou nezumi ぶどうネズミ, or grape mouse (purple grey), fuji nezumi 藤ネズミ, or Fuji mouse (light purple grey), yanagi nezumi 柳鼠, or willow mouse (light green grey), and cha nezumi 茶鼠, or tea mouse (light brown grey).
Japanese Colour Meanings
Although there are these initial meanings attributed, there are a number of different interpretations of each colour in Japan. Semantics vary from island to island and some meanings overlap.
Japanese Primary Colours
- Earth (Yellow)
- Wood (Blue)
- Fire (Red)
- Water (Black)
- Metal (White)
Earth (Yellow)
Yellow represents the element of Earth and the directional Centre, but also encompasses links with the Sun and Summertime, along with the warmth of mid-summer, and concepts like the virtue of Fidelity. It also connotes of courage.
But there are also a number of similarities between both eastern (courage) and western (cowardice) meanings. Saying that someone has a yellow beak is like calling them a rookie, and a yellow voice is associated with the high-pitched tones of shrieking children and angry women.
Wood (Blue)
Blue has strictly secular connotations. One theory is that because the Japanese never worshiped an all-powerful god dwelling in heaven above, blue never became associated with lofty, religious sentiments. As well as emblematising the element of Wood, the directional East, Spring time, and Benevolence, the colour Blue encapsulates Femininity, Purity, Passivity and Calmness.
Blue was a popular choice for:
- ceramics, namely sometsuke 染付け porcelain
- fine art, namely the aizuri-e 藍摺り絵 woodblock prints.
- indigo dyeing industry that flourished in Shikoku during the Edo period. Kimonos are predominantly crafted in or dyed with this colour, due to the fact that Blue also reflects Japanese fashion. Young Japanese women traditionally wear blue to symbolise their innocence. Japanese business suits are often made in various shades of blue and students frequently wear blue “recruitment suits”, particularly for job interviews.
Red
Red came to be associated with authority and wealth, as attested to by red-sheathed samurai swords and ornamental combs. It also has ties to religion, as demonstrated by the red torii of Shinto shrines, whose shrine maidens are traditionally clad in red hakama 袴.
Black
Black exudes dignity and formality, and is used for the robes of Buddhist monks, as well as for montsuki 紋付, the kimono that bears the family crest.
An ancient Japanese tradition known as ‘o-haguro’, which is the practice of dying one’s teeth black, considered beautiful at one point in Japanese history.
Metal (White)
Symbolic of Metal, White is a symbol of Purity and Innocence. White is godly and sacred places are strung with shimenawa 注連縄 festooned with white shide 紙垂, or strewn with white pebbles or sand.
It additionally connotes the West, the seasonal Fall, and the virtue of Justice. Aside from the black cap, Shinto priests are adorned completely in the purity of White.
Intrinsically linked with the spirit in Japanese culture, the neutral noncolor that is White was traditionally used to represent mourning and grief.
Secondary Colours
Many other colours now have significant links with specific concepts.
Green
The word for both Blue and Green (ao – 青) was used to describe both colours and the word for Green is a much more recent linguistic emergence.
Nevertheless green is an incredibly popular and symbolic colour.
- Existing in numerous shades, it is emblematic of Matcha green tea – Japan’s favourite hot beverage.
- it represents Eternity, Life, Vegetation, Vitality, and a plethora of other meanings.
Purple
Royalty is linked with this colour across the globe; majestic and spiritually linked with divine rule. Purple is worn by the rich and upper-classes, to symbolise both Wealth and Prestige.
Pink
Pink holds great significance in Japanese culture: in fashion, in painting, in art, and in design, among other areas. As the dominant colour of springtime Japanese landscapes, thanks to the fields of blossoms, Pink represents Happiness, Youth, and new beginnings.
Resources
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_colors_of_Japan
https://www.tofugu.com/japan/color-in-japan/
